The Italian grandfather who taught me to watch the sea

Solo trip on MSC Seashore, Mediterranean itinerary. My neighbor on the balcony next door was an Italian man in his eighties named Giorgio who was on his forty-seventh cruise. Forty-seventh. We could hear each other through the divider and on the first morning he said 'You are looking at your phone. Look at the water instead.' I put my phone down and looked at the water. He started narrating what he saw: the color changes as we passed over different depths, the pattern of the ship's wake, the way clouds form differently over warm and cold currents. He had been watching the sea for twenty years and he knew it like a language. We had coffee on our adjacent balconies every morning for seven days. I have not looked at my phone on a balcony since.